In the world of haute cuisine it ranks as the ultimate heresy. A food writer has had the temerity to accuse Ferran Adria, often described as the world’s best chef, of inadvertently poisoning diners with additives.
Adria, who presides over El Bulli, near Barcelona, inspires a reverence usually reserved for rock stars as he experiments with frozen foams and oyster cubes that many regard more as art than cookery.
